Building a Boat the Easy Way

From time to time I’ve been asked the question “I’d love to own a small boat, is it hard to build one?” It’s really surprising the looks of doubt when I answer, “No, no, no! If you know what to do and you’re willing to invest a little time you can do it easily!” The next questions that usually follow are “How much time?” and “How much will it cost?” Well, generally speaking, that really is the “How long is a piece of string question!” and it can vary quite a bit.

People differ of course, and what may take two or three weekends for one may painstakingly for others, take a couple of months. The short answer is, “It depends how fast you work, but two or three weekends should be average at a rough guess.” In 1998 the Wooden Boat Association chose a Dolphin 16 to construct at the ‘Down by the River Festival’ at Brisbane. In spite of several cases of VB’s the boys managed to build a 16′ Dolphin (non sailing version) in two afternoons and present it to a lucky prizewinner.

HOW MUCH?

Once again, quite tricky, some folks will splash out on camel hair paintbrushes and six pairs of throwaway overalls and new gloves… already they’ve spent thirty odd dollars more than the next chap who still has his fist wrapped around his dollars. For the average homebuilder they should be able to construct this boat for approximately 0.00 to 00.00, if they don’t take into account their own time. Thirty to forty hours labour should be sufficient to complete this project to a reasonable standard. Remember, cost for materials vary greatly all over the country and this must be taken into consideration!

WHAT SORT OF BOAT IS THIS?

The DOLPHIN 12

Firstly, it’s a simple composite epoxy and glass ply boat, just under twelve feet by six feet in beam, big enough for a couple of adults and a motor roughly up to five to seven hp. It’s stable, open, has a couple of seats and will take inshore waters in its stride. I prefer to think of it as an open family/fishing craft that can be used in rivers, estuaries and lakes.

The DOLPHIN 16…POWER AND SAILING VERSIONS

This is basically the same as the 12 but is made of 4.5 sheets of 6mm ply and is strengthened more for the sailing version by way of extra glass in the chainplate areas and longitudinal stringers for the floors. There are three rigs to choose from. The ‘Batwing Gunter Rig’, the ‘Balanced Lug Sail’ or the ‘Standing Lug Rig’. See diagrams. In addition, the sailing version has a 10′ x 10″ keel that is ballasted by the inclusion of two 35 kilo lead ingots glassed into the keel during construction. Also, there is a rudder constructed of Oregon, coated in glass. Please note that a simpler plywood and glass version can also be built if required. The mast is a solid Oregon piece 12′ with an 8′ spar for the standing lug rig version.

THE DOLPHIN 19 KETCH

The 19 foot Ketch is the latest addition to the fleet. She also is a frameless boat, an extended Dolphin 16 with a couple of additions. The dimensions are 19 foot by six foot beam and she has a 20 inch freeboard but this can be extended to 22 inches at the expense of the sheer line curve. There is a 5 foot foredeck that leads back to the main mast. This mast is situated immediately behind the bulkhead that the deck itself sits on. There is ample storage under this deck for extra flotation or gear storage as required. Entrance to this area is through the cutout in the bulkhead.

The craft has the choice of two keel configurations, an eighteen inch keel or a twelve inch keel depth that runs approx. two thirds along the boat’s length. This is constructed from solid Oregon and provides the strong backbone needed for the frameless design. There is also provision for twin bilge keels that allow easy beaching and use of a slightly more shallow keel, around 9/10 inches. Ballast for the boat is four lead ingots that are built into the keel itself and is approximately 150 lbs in weight. It is envisaged that the boat, ballasted, should be in the area of some 450 lbs (210 kgs) unloaded.

The rig is a twin mast Ketch configuration with a jib area of 19 square feet, the mainsail, 56.5 sq. feet and the mizzen mast, 24 sq. feet in area. This is approx 100 sq. feet total sail area. The rig is a standing lug, boomless with a top spar approximately eight feet long. A gaff rig is also possible for this boat, in fact the first Dolphin 19 customer in South Australia has opted for this rig. The craft is designed to sail with jib and mizzen alone and should provide much more room aboard in this configuration. For any prolonged jib/mizzen configuration a slightly larger jib area would provide better sail balance and power.

The twin masts are either clear Oregon or clear spruce but the spruce alternative would be fairly expensive! They are planed round from four inch square stock and are quick to make if an electric planer is used. They are soaked in epoxy and then finished in anti ultra violet varnish to prevent ‘milking’ of the epoxy. An unusual feature of this design is the twin galvanized wire stays on each mast. This gives a traditional look but also adds a significant safety factor. The solid Oregon chain plates, placed outboard of the hull provide an attractive old fashioned classic look to this very versatile little sailing craft.

As with all the Dolphin range the hull is beamy and commences with a vee sectioned bow that falls away to a flatter 7 degree hull bottom to provide plenty of beam stability. There is no floor in this design but that is not to say that one could not be easily added if required. The primary reason for not including a floor in the original design was for access to the bilge area for cleaning and to prevent water lying in the boat unseen, a primary cause of damage in boats left unattended for a while.

The boat is designed to take an outboard engine (10-12 hp approx) that could be attached to the transom with an outboard bracket but it is possible to fit an inboard if required. This necessitates the addition of engine beds and a floor and was omitted really because of the extra time and labour required to install.

This craft was designed with intention to provide a versatile easy to build ‘proper little boat’ for the owner that would like a boat that is a ‘no fuss’ design that can be built using very simple, easy build techniques that really do away with excess build times. There is nothing more frustrating than hacking way for weeks building complicated frames that must interlock with sophisticated “mortise and tenon joints” and the like, requiring quite advanced woodworking skills that are generally just a bit beyond the average D.I.Y. chap. If you can use a jig saw, tape measure and a sanding machine and mix up epoxy glue, the Dolphin 19 will be an easy project for you. Don’t forget that we are only a phone call away and pride ourselves in our after sales ‘help line’ that is available for advice and help anytime during normal hours!!

The Dolphin 19, with its simple, two page A1 plan and instruction book does away with the need for tiresome lofting and calculations normally required. It really is more like a simple case of ‘join the dots’ building that the Dolphins are becoming well known for. A hundred and fifty owners can’t all be wrong!!

WHAT SORT OF CONSTRUCTION IS IT?

Basically, the 12 footer is built from three sheets and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 16 footer from four and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 19 foot Ketch, six sheets of 1220 x 2440. They are built using a simple ‘stitch and glue’ method using epoxy resin glue thickened with Q-Cells or Microspheres and then layered on the outside with a strong layer of 300 gm biaxial glass cloth and epoxy resin. The instructions contained in the plan fully detail to the last degree every technique that will be needed to build these boats. The plans, known as the ‘easybuild’ method requires no complicated lofting but a very simple ‘join the dots’ method that can be drawn directly onto the ply. For example, the whole boat (a 12) can be drawn up in one afternoon and all the shapes cut out. The finished weight, minus motor, is approximately thirty odd kilos depending on the weight of ply, epoxy and glass that you use. The transom is a single piece of ply approximately 20mm in width. Built with these composite materials, it’s strong, tough, extremely light and with care will last for years.

SAILS AND SAILING GEAR

All dimensions for the above gear are supplied with the plan and all equipment is available from any local chandlers. The gear required is simple, cheap and easy to build for a first time builder.

WHAT TOOLS WILL I NEED?

Not many. A jigsaw, clamps, an orbital sander, a drill and perhaps an electric planer and a belt sander with a few assorted grade belts would be handy!

Materials – 4 sheets ply for 12′…4.5 sheets for 16′…6 sheets ply for 19’

Plywood sheets 1220mm x 2440mm ply, suitable for boatbuilding. There are many and various makes and grades and I’ll not enter into that can of worms, suffice to say that with the use of epoxy composites you will not be restricted necessarily to ‘marine ply’.

1 piece 15mm ply 3’ x 6’.

Approximately 6 metres 300gm bi-axial fibreglass cloth.

12 litres Epoxy resin.

Q-Cells or Microspheres.

Various assorted widths of Hoop Pine or Meranti 40mm x 10mm for rubbing strakes.

Materials required for the sails and sailing gear will be listed in the plans and can be varied if required upon advice from your rigger or sail maker.

The price of the plans can be found on the website listed below.

NOTE: IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE SOME PICTURES THAT ACCOMPANY THIS ARTICLE GO TO

www.dolphinboatplans.com

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Information About Buying a Used Boat

Those of you who have money and plan to keep one boat forever, should buy again. If you do happen to be on a budget and skeptical about a boat, you have to buy used. Purchasing is used for some large, but not always the most glamorous choice. Oceans and lakes are filled with boats that are much richer than most. Many boats are beyond their means and financing their boats at extreme levels.

What really counts with a boat there in the water. Someone who is every weekend flying boat is a great browser. A businessman who has time to get in his 60-foot yacht once or twice a year, not as a boater at all.

If you look around at the water, you have to have the small boats in motion, while the larger vessels are not moved. The money, which are busy and have no time to go boating should not really have a boat at all.

New boats can lose, half of its value in less than 2 years. With a used boat, the owner has corrected the problems with new vessels. The previous owner took care of the concessionaire for the care of warranty.

A ship used in the rule, not much was needed at all. One boat in particular SA, it is not like a used car. You will find many boats with less than two hundred hours of engine time. For comparison, look at the number of hours on the engine of his car.

A used boat has scratches and dents, so do not feel so bad if some of his own added. When you buy your sale, you must at least take a great team on board and the necessary repairs.

A ship is usually with dock lines, life jackets, accessories, spare parts, radio, safety equipment and other supplements in Nice. New boat owners will be paying hundreds of dollars for these things.

The Joker is, of course, if the previous owner the right boat maintenance boat. Before you buy, you should always ensure that the ship from the poll, is in reasonably good condition. In this way you will know your journey to a great used boat.

Tips For Buying A Boat

There has been a lot of good advice written about buying and selling boats but after personally buying over 20 boats and being involved in the purchase of many more, there are some pointers that I would like to share that I haven’t seen in other articles that I have read.

Buy it at a good price. This may sound obvious but with many people the purchase of a boat is a very personal thing, often the fulfillment of a dream. For this reason they become too attached to a boat and often pay too much. Boats are rarely a ‘good investment’ and for this reason you have to get a good price on your purchase or you will lose too much money when you inevitably sell it. There are many boats out there for sale, take your time and get yours for a good price.
Dont overbuy. Boats are not like houses – you wont ‘grow into them’. Unfortunately far too many boats end up being used very infrequently so if you get lured into buying more of a boat than you were originally looking for you will just wind up spending too much money. Everything on a larger boat costs more money, the original purchase price, the price of storage (by the foot), every part is larger and more expensive, insurance and on and on. If your original plan was to buy a small boat for day sailing, stick to your plan.
All boats are not terrible investments. The majority of the boats I have purchased have been used boats – and I sold them for about the same (and one time more) than what I paid for them. Yes I put money into them for maintenance and improvements, but you have to expect to pay something for your fun times. Most of them were sailboats which hold their value better – but I bought them at a good price. Even with new boats, if you look at the price of a boat that is 5 years old and compare it to the original list price – there is often very little difference.
A few more pointers:  If you can choose a boat that has spent its life in fresh water versus salt water go for the fresh water boat – the ocean is a tough environment. Remember that a boat that is polished, clean and orderly has probably been better maintained its whole life too. Be wary of boats that have been sunk or underwater for a period of time – there may be many uncovered problems. Bring a flash light with you when you go to check out a boat and open and crawl into every nook and cranny – you never know what you might find.

In closing I would like to add that the old saying ‘your happiest days of boat ownership are the day you buy it – and the day you sell it’ doesn’t apply to everyone. I have loved every boat that I ever owned and hated to see it go. ‘Break Out Another Thousand’ may have applied to my boats occasionally, but I have also gotten my money’s worth out of every one of them.

Aluminium or Fibreglass Boats

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Perhaps 90% of modern planning trailer boats are made from just two materials, aluminium and fibreglass. Both were developed in the late 1950s, replacing plywood or “bondwood” as the favoured small boat building materials.

The advantage of the new materials, especially fibreglass, was the manufacturer’s ability to produce identical boats quickly, more efficiently, and with relatively unskilled labour. As you can imagine, this revolutionised recreational powerboat manufacturing, opening the door for the establishment of many new companies, as well giving builders the ability to experiment with different hull types and configurations.

Aluminium Boats

Alloy boats or “tinnies” as they are known throughout Australia, are favourites with small boat buyers and inland, estuary fishermen. Remarkably, up to 90% of boats in the 0 – 4.5 m size class are manufactured from aluminium. The majority of these craft are built using sheets of relatively light weight aluminium (1.2 – 3.0 mm) which are “pressed” to provide rigidity and strength.

Pressed aluminium boats are most popular in sizes up to around 5.0 m, and have a number of advantages over fibreglass boats. They are light, durable and require less horsepower and in the smaller sizes usually less expensive than fibreglass.

Conversely, they are also quite hard riding and noisy, and they rattle and vibrate underway. They don’t have the practical working life of most fibreglass as they suffer from electrolysis or cracking after years of pounding over the water.

In addition to the pressed alloy boat builders, there are specialist manufacturers of what are called “plate” alloy boats. Plate alloy boats are generally considered to be stronger and more durable (albeit much heavier) because they are built using thicker alloy sheet (up to 6.0 mm). Plate alloy boats can usually be identified by their smooth hull finish along the topsides, as opposed to the panelled look of the lighter weight pressed alloy models.

Fibreglass Boats

Fibreglass boats have been popular in Australia since they were first developed in the late 1950s. Generally speaking, fibreglass trailer boats are most popular in sizes above 5.0 m in length. On the used boat market, there are plenty of top quality models available.

Fibreglass boats are easier to build than alloy boats, but more importantly, fibreglass boat designers are able to create much more sophisticated and softer riding hull shapes. As a general rule, fibreglass boats also handle better through turns, are sportier, run much quieter, are more attractive and more luxuriously outfitted.

The major shortcoming of the fibreglass trailer boat is its weight, at least when compared with a pressed alloy boats under 5.5m in length. Glass boats, are often heavy and need more power for good performance and demand a more powerful tow vehicle.

Contrary to wide believe, fibreglass boats are considerably tougher than aluminium. Fibreglass doesn’t rip or tear as aluminium can do. If you were to hit rock or a submerged object, you are less likely to hole than if in aluminium. Also the bounding caused by trailer travel and choppy seas, does not weaken structurally fibreglass as it does that of aluminium. Therefore it is not uncommon to see many 40 year old fibreglass boats still happily working the waterways! You do have to be careful on the launch ramp or near rocks etc., to avoid cracking and gouging the gelcoat or outer skin of the fibreglass.

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Is Boating for You?

Boating is one of the more popular hobbies around the world. People of all ages and backgrounds enjoy taking to the water during the hot summer months. They use everything from canoes to yachts to enjoy the water. Some people even live on the water by purchasing a houseboat.

Boats are generally used for several activities. One of the most common is fishing. Wide varieties of boats are appropriate to this activity. If you have a small boat that you can transport, research fishing opportunities before you travel.

Portability is an attractive feature in inflatable boats, dinghies and folding boats. Sitting around the campfire trading fishing stories and singing sea shanties adds a pleasant new dimension to any camping trip, and many campgrounds even offer boats for rent. If you plan to do your fishing closer to home, you may want to invest in an air boat or one of several styles of bass boats.

Another popular boating activity is water sports. Bring a pair of water skis when you go motor boating and you have an automatic afternoon of fun. Sports boats and motor boats provide just the right power for a variety of exciting water sports.

Perhaps sailing is more your style. Imagine relaxing on a classic boat that is powered by the wind, living the same adventure once experienced by pirates, merchant marines and explorers. Sailing requires a good deal of work and practice, but the rewards of this type of boating are immeasurable.

If you live near the water, it is easy to make boating an important part of your life. If you live further from the water, you will have to factor in travel time and expenses when deciding if the boating life is right for you. Many who live in landlocked areas make boating a vacation activity.

Take advantage of opportunities to experience the water without making any sort of commitment. On your next vacation, sign up for boat tours that are offered. Depending on your destination, this may be a swamp tour, glass bottom boat ride, or even a paddle wheeler. Odds are good that if you enjoy these sorts of excursions, you would enjoy piloting your own boat.

In many locations, it is possible to rent boats for a short time. Rent a variety of sizes and styles to get a feel for what works for you. Also, talk to current boat owners either in person or in an online boating forum.

If you decide that you enjoy boating, do not be too quick to buy a boat. Many people who enjoy boating as a hobby decide to buy boats only to discover that the boat owner lifestyle does not work for them.

Before investing in a boat, make sure you are comfortable with the idea of storing and/or trailering the boat. If you can, help out a friend who owns a boat so you have a good idea of what is involved.

Boating is an exciting activity that will whet your appetite for the great outdoors. Your budget and where you live will determine if boating becomes an occasional hobby or a more permanent way of life. One thing is certain: you should head out to the water and discover for yourself how you feel about boating.

www.naplesguru.com (239) 963-4070 Tim Ryan – Naples Real Estate – Lakeside, a single family and condo gated community, is known for its huge 42 acre fresh water lake that provides a great water view and endless fishing and boating (small non-gas powered) for its residents. With a mixture of single family homes, attached villas, carriage homes and condos, this community has many plans to offer. The location is central to the Pine Ridge area, so great shopping and favorite restaurants are nearby. Also, a movie theatre, beaches and great school are only a short drive. Community has a nice clubhouse that provides a great place to hold social events and amenities include 5 Har-Tru tennis courts, shuffle board, heated spa, sauna, two pools, a fitness center and boat storage. Units start in the 0s and go up to the 0s.

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Build Your Own Wooden Fishing Boat

Building your own handcrafted wooden leisure of fishing boat is not nearly as difficult as you might think. I have built many from scratch, but the first is the most educational. And that’s what this article is all about. You don’t need special expensive tools or any carpentry experience. Just follow simple instructions and you can build an incredible wooden boat of your very own and save thousands of dollars for that new rod and reel.

So what would you like? A saltwater fishing boat ready for the bay? A freshwater cruiser primed for the lake? If you can imagine it, you can built it. And for less than 0 using top-grade marine plywood and certified materials!

Let’s start with the basics. My first boat-building project was an eight foot outboard ready motorboat. The plans were for a simple “Portuguese style rowing dinghy” designed by a boat builder in Finland named Hannu Vartiala. All I had to do was add a motor-board (all of ten minutes work) and all of the sudden I had a handcrafted motorboat ready for an outboard. Let’s look at a similar simple project.

First, get some plans and, if possible, building instructions. You can buy them at a number of online boat building shops by searching for “plywood boat plans” on Google, but Hannu’s are incredibly easy to follow and free. Here’s the link to the first project I did. It’s an eight foot car-top model that goes anywhere:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/dinghy1/simboii.htm

For materials, all you need is

1.) 2 sheets of 1/4″ marine plywood. You can use other types but I always stick with marine. You can get it in most places for about to per sheet.

2.) Marine epoxy with hardener (1 gallon kit is plenty) and about 40 feet of 4″ fiberglass tape.

3.) A couple 3/8″ x 1.5″ pieces of trim board for the rails

4.) A piece of pine for the bench and reinforcements

5.) A set of cheap oarlocks (optional.)

You can find everything by searching Google and the wood at a local home supply store or lumber yard.

The boat construction method we will be using is called “stitch and glue.” Note: Hannu has a modified stitch and glue method that saves time, and in my experience, builds a better boat faster.

Moneysaving Tip: Everyone who even knows someone who has built a boat will talk about West Marine for all of your supply needs. And they certainly do have it all, but I found I could find deals averaging 40% less by shopping around. There are plenty of real bargains out there. If you can find the online store of a shop in a popular boat building area like coastal Maine, Cape Cod MA, Nags Head NC, Santa Barbara CA, or just about anywhere in Florida – you can usually get better deals on supplies and expert advice from anyone working in the shop. Raka, Inc down in Ft. Pierce Florida is a good example (http://www.Raka.com) but certainly not the only one.

As for tools, all I use are an 18V battery operated handheld power drill, 18V battery operated circular saw with a plywood blade, 24″ metal straight edge and square combination and a whole lot of “C” clamps.

If you start with an easy boat like the one I did, you can build beautiful wooden boats like a pro without ever doing anything more complex than a straight cut with a circular saw. That’s how I got started and now I build custom wooden saltwater fishing boats you might see in fishing tournaments.

You can do this. Best of luck!

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How to Paint a Wooden Boat

One of the great increasing mysteries of today’s modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad’s paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store…they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that’s just come in. For example, you’ll be faced with trade names like ‘Interlux Interthane coating’. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I’m sure you get the gist of what I’m saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to 0 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that’s so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour…can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit… it’s only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don’t paint it, right? – wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don’t let’s forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot….we’ll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won’t have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull – sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don’t forget it won’t be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It’s a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It’s best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can’t be removed later on. For example, painter’s glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I’ve heard stories that primers and paints don’t adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won’t stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp…. if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it…Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker…fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil–based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi–build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that’s talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi–build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let’s get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that’s fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here…apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or ‘work’ as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new….not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat…they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two–packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two–packs… there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice…I’m not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer’s products are usually ok! It’s your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive…a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I’ve fallen for it myself before now. It’s the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer…a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES

l. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It’s a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don’t mind repainting it every couple of years….cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn’t have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint….it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl’s Acrylic semi–gloss “CANE” and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi–gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day…and she’s forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there’s your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing…preparation is King… it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There’s another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we’ll deal with that one later.

Let’s take a look at spraying. There are several pre–requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn’t cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there’s one chap who works in Edge’s boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job…imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes…not over anyone’s car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I’ve seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush…….Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the ‘roll and tip’ method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and ‘tips’ out the bubbles left behind by the roller – unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don’t be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish….wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It’s tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There’s a different formula for that and I don’t know it!

THE FORMULA

ONE COAT = The boat’s length overall x the beam x 0.85

Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can’t work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.Good Luck!

Build Boats

Maybe you are retired or simply take advantage of the outdoors, as well as the water especially, constructing small boats generally is a very gratifying interest. To begin with, when you have thought about buying a boat, even a small one, you may already know to be inbelievably high priced.

If you wish to build your own boat and cut costs, building small boats is a terrific way to get rolling. Once you have completed the first project, you might find that you might want to keep building small boats, as well as a larger size versions, and before very long, you will be a highly skilled boat builder.

Therefore you decide that building small boats are a few things that you are unquestionably thinking about. What right now? Commence by performing an internet research looking for a very good set of basic plans for building small boats. Yes, there are numerous free of charge plan sets accessible, yet ask yourself what type of value you are likely to obtain from those plans.

· How many sets of plans can be found?

· Is there help support available on the website?

· Does the individual who prepared the plans have boat building knowledge themselves?

· Are the plans easy to follow and not difficult for the starter to try?

You may take into account taking a look at several web-sites that provide numerous sets of plans for just one cost, because if you like boat building as a hobby, you’ll want to try out more difficult builds while you discover. An outstanding add-on could be DVDs which you are able to look at while you build your boat to just be sure you are choosing the plan correctly.

Often hobbies and interests take off in a big way. After you begin building boats, you may get folks ending within and wondering wherever you still have your own boat. When you finally inform them that you simply built it along with your very own 2 hands, don’t be shocked if people start asking you if you possibly could build them a boat. Boats are very pricey, and building your own boat can help to save a handsome profit. If you’re able to build boats and get pleasure from doing that as a hobby, you’ll be able to discover how you could proft your abilities.

Everybody hopes for doing something they enjoy for a job. If you build boats as a hobby to start with, and you really enjoy it, you could turn it into a small yet lucrative home based business. Small Boat Plans

Aluminum Boat Plans – Basics of Building an Aluminum Boat

Boat building is not just a career for some as it is a hobby for others. The benefits of designing and building your own boat are endless. With aluminum boat plans the amount of money you could save alone is worth it, but just cannot compare to the great feeling of pride that comes with being out on the water on your very own custom vessel.

When considering which direction to take when building a boat you are faced with one initial question. What type of material would be best for my boat? Wooden boats can turn out beautifully as they will personify in their own glory the craftsmanship of the carpenter who shaped it. If you’re a skilled carpenter wood may be your fancy and you should give it a go. But if this is your first boat you might want to stick to an aluminum hull. Find yourself some aluminum boat plans or better yet design your own.

Aluminum boats are generally going to hold up for a long time. Expect to have your boat for years as long as you properly maintain it. With its lightweight construction mobility is less of an issue. With a long truck bed one could easily transport it to your favorite body of water. Dragging it by yourself into the water is even a possibility but it is probably better to have someone help you carry it. For a long boat steel may be a better choice, and you’ll need a boat trailer to transport it. But if you’re looking to build something inexpensive, cheap, and simple, a small aluminum boat is the way to go.

If you are building an aluminum boat you will be saving yourself a lot of stress and headache. You’ll be completely bypassing the painful route of fiber glass contrsuction not too mention all the money you’ll be saving versus the other types of material you could use. The very first boat that I ever constructed was made of an aluminum hull. It took me months of hardwork and dedication but I kept at it and in the end enjoyed the benefits having my own custom boat. It was a stepping stone into more advanced boat building and is now my weekend hobby that I really enjoy.

My favorite part about the aluminum boat I built is the fact that I designed it myself. If you would like to design your own Aluminum Boat Plans or really any type of boat you desire you might be interested in the 3-dimensional CAD software that made designing my boat easy. More information can be found at http://3DBoatDesigner.info

Here the Deckster slips along effortlessly with the Hobie Mirage Drive The Deckster has a removable bow section that allows it to stow around a mast on even the smallest yachts. Plans to build your own Deckster available at woodenwidget.com

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